Tuesday, October 28, 2008

Lanolin is lovely. Really.

We've just had the following email:

"I have just had some patch tests completed with my dermatologist and have been told I have reactions to perfume/essential oils, lanolin and sodium metabisulphite."

This is typical of the sort of inquiry we get and reinforces what we always say about perfume and essential oils being the main culprits in causing irritation to sensitive skin. Yet, I read the following on one internet beauty tip site recently:

"One good thing for sensitive skin is the skin care essential oils. Essential oils in most cases will not have a reaction to your skin, if it does then stop using the product right away. You can try essential oils such as Lavender, Rose, Sandalwood, Neroli, and Chamomile. So, if you have sensitive skin, than try out these essential oils to see if these will help your skin."

Ugh! It's no wonder people with sensitive skin end up not even trying to find anything which works for them if they've followed dangerous and stupid advice like this.

Anyway, what interested me about our email was the fact that I didn't know much about sodium metabisulphite - we don't use this ingredient - and so I thought I'd do a bit of research into it. And also, I was interested that this woman was sensitive to lanolin. Lanolin has long been accused of being a sensitive skin culprit and, while this woman clearly does have a problem with it, mostly it is an excellent ingredient with a very good track record. Like preservatives though, it is something that is seized upon by people as being a 'baddie'. We get lots of women calling in claiming they are sensitive to 'preservatives and lanolin'. Yet, when you ask if they have had patch tests, they say 'no' and further probing reveals they just think these are causing their problems because they've heard vague mention of them somewhere.

I have always liked the www.cosmeticscop.ca website which is run by a woman called Paula Begoun, an ex-make-up artist and now a writer and the owner of her own cosmetics line (and someone who seems eminently well informed and sensible), so I thought I'd see what her ingredients directory said about lanolin. It makes interesting reading:

Lanolin: Emollient, very thick substance derived from the sebaceous glands of sheep. Lanolin has long been burdened with a reputation for being an allergen or sensitizing agent, which has always been a disappointment to formulators because lanolin is such an effective moisturizing agent for skin. A study in the British Journal of Dermatology (July 2001, pages 28–31) may change all that. The study concluded “that lanolin sensitization has remained at a relatively low and constant rate even in a high-risk population (i.e., patients with recent or active eczema).” Based on a review of 24,449 patients who were tested with varying forms of lanolin, it turned out that “The mean annual rate of sensitivity to this allergen was 1.7%”—and it was lower than that for a 50% concentration of lanolin. It looks like it’s time to restore lanolin’s good reputation. That’s a very good thing for someone with dry skin, though it can be a problem for someone with oily skin, because lanolin closely resembles the oil from human oil glands (see here for more http://www.cosmeticscop.ca/dictionaryL).

As for sodium metabisulfite, this is something which is used in hair products.

Says Paula Begoun's ingredients dictionary: "Reducing agent that alters the structure of hair. It can also be used as a preservative in formulations, and can be a skin irritant. However, it can also be an antioxidant (Source: Journal of Pharmaceutical Science and Technology, September–October 1999, pages 252–259)."

I also found mention of its use in some skincare products, one of which is a range or brand called Obagi. At the end of some product information, this site says: "This product also contains sodium metabisulfite, a sulfite that may cause serious allergic type reactions (e.g., hives, itching, wheezing, anaphylaxis severe asthma attacks) in certain susceptible persons." Hmm.

I am pleased to say that, while we do use lanolin in a few products (excellent products too and used by clients with a wide range of sensitive skin conditions), we do have plenty of products which don't contain it so we can hopefully help the sender of our email. I'll keep you posted.

That's it for now.

Us at Queen

1 comment:

Maho Lucil said...

Lanolin is completely organic and of natural origin. For some they used this ingredients in creams to effectively treat chapped lips, diaper rash, dry skin, itchy skin and minor burns. To reduce fine lines and wrinkles, you can also apply some eye wrinkle creams under your eyes twice a day.